Gardening Shed Or Outdoor Storage – What’s the Environmental Price?

When looking for a garden building or shed, many people just care about the size, the price, and how much stuff they can fit inside.  Many of us want to make sure the garden building we are buying is ethically made and won’t cause lasting damage to the environment. There are some things to look for to make sure your garden building is made in a way that sits right with you.

Check For The FSC Logo!

The easiest way to make sure that your wooden shed or garden building comes from a sustainable source is to look for an FSC logo on the product. The FSC is the Forest Stewardship Council. Their aim is for any product approved by them to have 70 percent of its wood to come from forests that are well managed. It is quite tricky to know exactly what the FSC logo on a garden building means, but it is something that many shed merchants will display with pride. Some even go so far as to have sections dedicated to garden buildings that are made with FSC approved wood. We think this is great, and it should be the first thing you look for.

One thing that is worth noting is that some garden building retailers don’t display the FSC logo, but they make mention of it in their shed description. So if you do not see the logo, be sure to read the description. Of course, you can always directly ask the merchant or even shoot the folks at FSC an email to ensure the merchant you are looking at is on the up and up.

Look Into The Treatment That Is Used

Most sheds these days come with just a basic basecoat treatment. You will have to give it a coating of wood treatment once it is installed. Some people are a little bit nervous about things like this as they are worried about what kind of chemicals are in the treatment they are using. We have looked, looked again, and then looked some more and we cannot find a retailer who actually tells you exactly what is in the treatment they offer. Usually it will be a case of them just saying something like, “Buy a 2 L tub of golden brown wood treatment.” If you look, you will most likely see the brand, but that is all the information you are likely to find.

Most of the time, wood treatment will be fine. It is made to look after wood so it really should not have any harmful chemicals in it. But you can always just take a look at the brand of wood treatment the retailer offers and do your own little bit of detective work to see if the treatment is environmentally sound.

Is The Wood The Garden Building Is Made From Sustainable?

This is not really something that many shed retailers are going to be talking a whole lot about, but as someone who cares about the environment, you will want to make sure that the wood they are using is from trees that grow fast. Just have a look at the kind of wood the shed you are interested in is made from and then you can do your own little bit of homework.

What Kind Of Labour Was Used To Make The Shed?

Was the shed made by people who were treated right and paid a fair wage? Of course, this is not something that is just out in the open on most retailers sites. But for the most part, you can easily find information about a retailer and the different brands of garden buildings online. You can then find out a little about the manufacturing processes that are used. Many sheds that are sold in the UK are actually made in the UK, but it really does not hurt to do a little bit of homework to find out exactly how the shed was made.

Do Not Be Scared To Ask Questions

You will have noticed that a few times we have said that you will have to get in touch with a retailer to make sure the shed, bike shed, summerhouse, or whatever it is you are looking at is made in a way that you feel is right. Here we have a checklist of questions that you should ask to make sure the shed or garden building you are looking at is right for you.

  • Was the shed made with FSC approved wood?
  • Who makes the shed and was it made in a fair way? (no slave labour)
  • What is in the wood treatment?
  • What kind of wood was used, and how quickly does it grow?

These are simple and basic questions, but if you get the answer to these you will know for sure if the shed was made ethically and from sustainable sources.

If you want to look more in depth at how to be sure your future garden building is ethically manufactured, check out the following guide here.

Related Reading:

 

The Benefits of Bokashi for Pets

Bokashi bran can help dogs, cats, and other animal companions live healthier, chemical-free lives and reduce their carbon paw prints. I would never have discovered bokashi if it weren’t for our tuxedo cat, Max.

We live in a suburban subdivision on what was once high, arid prairie southeast of Denver. For years I’ve successfully composted Max’s used pine pellet (animal bedding) litter along with food scraps in a trench. Composting requires two parts nitrogen/green/food scraps to one part carbon/brown/litter sawdust. I stored the green and the brown outdoors in separate buckets.

While the smell of the litter was easy to contain, stockpiling food scraps in warm weather had a high ick factor. When I opened a “ripe” food bucket, the smell was overwhelming. Plus the rotting green waste attracted flies. And my neighbor’s back door is just yards away.

While searching for natural solutions, I ran across an age-old practice so effective, I can’t believe that I’d passed it by for years just because of its odd-sounding name – bokashi. After throwing together my first batch of bran mix, my storage problems were solved and I was hooked. Thanks, Max!

Fermenting Versus Rotting

Bokashi bran ferments waste instead of letting it rot into putrid blobs. When you cover banana peels, tough asparagus stems and filters full of coffee grounds covered with bran they keep their shapes but morph into “food zombies” – Bizaro Superman images of themselves covered with white fuzzy mold.

Happily, the scraps no longer emit greenhouse gasses, so they no longer stink and attract flies. But they are degraded on the inside and compost in my trench much more quickly. I haven’t had problems with vermin, and I’ve run across reports that waste processed using bokashi bran repels rodents investigating compost piles.

Bokashi is simply pickling – anaerobic digestion on steroids. Cheeses, beer, wine, and sauerkraut are among the many foods that are produced through a similar manipulation of good, aggressive microbes that thrive in airless environments. The process is clean and high speed. The uber-microbes in the mix leave a mildly acidic scent.

Making and using bokashi bran is not complicated and the learning curve is a fairly short one. I’ve included a recipe below for the mix below. You’ll find pages of online posts explaining how bokashi bran can eliminate costly and environmentally unfriendly products, including fertilizers, drain cleaners, and septic sanitizers. But bokashi is especially helpful if you have pets, notably in the areas of odor elimination, probiotics, and diverting the waste they generate from landfills.

Cleaning Around Pets

If you’re using grain, paper, or wood-based litter, sprinkle a palm-full of the fermented grain into the litterbox before adding new litter. Your pet will stir up the bokashi and help activate its odor-fighting properties. The mix will also deodorize the bag or container holding the used litter. Beneficial microbes in bokashi bran don’t just cover odors, they actually suppress microbes that emit foul smells.

A little bokashi bran rubbed into a cat or dog beds will keep it smelling clean. Give your dog a good outdoor brushing while adding a bit of bokashi to freshen his or her coat. The fermented bran won’t hurt pets. It contains microbes that are all found in us and all around us in nature. Sprinkle the bran on the floor before vacuuming to eliminate pet odor on carpeting and in the vacuum bag.

Bokashi bran keeps gerbil, hamster, rabbit, and guinea pig cages fresh and speeds up composting the bedding. Want to perk up your koi? With a little research, you can find out how to clean your pond using straight EM or bokashi mud balls.

Probiotic for Healthy Digestion

We all know how good bacteria help the gut. Many bokashi enthusiasts add fermented bran to their bread and cereal. EM has a long history in animal husbandry. For generations, savvy farmers and ranchers have been helping to boost their livestock’s health by fermenting their feed or adding bokashi grain to their animals’ diets. I haven’t tried this yet with Max simply because I don’t dare ramp up his finicky threshold. But mix a bit with your dog’s favorite menu item, and chances are good that he or she will wolf it down.

If you compost using worms, then it’s not a stretch to say that red wigglers are your pets. Worms love scraps that have been pickled with bokashi and churn out more vermicompost and liquid feed/tea faster than they do with traditional food.

Bokashi Bran Recipe

Start with a mixture consisting of essential microorganisms (EM), a sugar source, grain, and water. You can buy the finished mix online or you make do it yourself. There are many bokashi mix recipes, but here’s a simple one. You can modify these portions to produce smaller or larger quantities.  I make 10 lb. each summer and use it year-round.

To make 10 lbs. of bokashi – thoroughly mix the following:

  • 4 Tbsp. EM-1
  • 4 Tbsp. molasses
  • 10 cups water
  • 10 lbs. bran

You can buy a bottle of EM-1 online, the molasses at the grocery store, and a 40-lb. bag of bran at a local feed supply store. The ingredients are inexpensive considering the bulk supply of bokashi they provide. I started by mixing five pounds of bokashi by hand in a clean cat litter bucket. It was fun! Kids would especially get a kick out of working this spongy material with a muffin dough fragrance. Cats rarely come when called, but Max always shows up when he smells fresh bokashi.

Tie the finished mixture in a tightly closed plastic bag so that it ferments, keep it in a dark lidded container for a month and voila – nice bokashi mix! You can use this freshly fermented bran for the next couple of weeks or air dry it, which will enable you to store it in an air-tight container for many months. To air-dry, simply spread the fresh, sandy-colored mix on a tarp for a few hours until it becomes a dark and grainy to the touch. You’ll want to do this on a warm, windless day.

Turning Pet Waste into Fertilizer

Give EM an airless hang-out and they quickly break down pet waste into carbon, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and fundamental biology – nutrient-dense components that rejuvenate soil. This is why bokashi is a good option for recycling pet waste, even when you don’t have the space or the inclination to compost.

If you want a quick, space-saving, pet waste bokashi system, search online for commercial products that make it easy. Prefab containers with their pre-mixed cultures – usually EM-inoculated bagged grains – are more-or-less pricey, so consider your specific needs and return on investment.

An advantage of commercial kits is that they provide step-by-step instructions that will keep you out of trouble and get the job done. There are product lines that specifically address using bokashi to upcycle pet waste. One company offers a special pet waste accelerant concentrate and another features a mixture called “Dookashi.”

A highly promoted system for odorless fermenting features two stackable, 3 ½- gallon plastic buckets. Simply fill the top bucket with water and deposit pet waste while the full bucket on the bottom completes the cycle. Thirty pounds of dog waste can be finished in a single week. So it would take one average dog more than a month to fill a bucket. The bottom bucket “rests” before it is finished and ready for burial as a fertilizer for ornamental plants.

You can also try do-it-yourself methods that require some time and effort but little investment if you make your own bokashi bran. Here are three approaches that can be used for pet waste or any other organic waste

Bokashi Soup, Stew, or Lasagna

  1. “Bokashi soup”/submerge method (indoors or out):  Fill an airtight container to the half mark with a water containing bokashi mixture. Add waste. Cover and repeat. When the container is almost full, stop adding waste and wait for the degradation to finish. Pour residual fermented waste water – now liquid fertilizer – into a hole or trench, mix with soil, cover with additional soil.
  2. “Bokashi stew”/dry method (indoors or out):  Start with an airtight container. Put a divider in the bottom of the bucket (bokashi using this method doesn’t like to be sitting in its own liquid). Any perforated divider with a few inches of space in the bottom will work. A spigot on the bottom will enable you to drain off the tea (leachate). Add layers of waste covered with bokashi mix. Cover and repeat until full. Stop adding waste and wait for cycle completion. Use finished solid as a fertilizer. Siphon off tea and dilute with water (1:100) to use as a liquid/spray fertilizer.
  3. “Bokashi lasagna”/dry method (outdoors): Place any container with an open bottom on bare ground or make an enclosure on bare ground. Add a layer of waste covered with bokashi mix. Add 2-3 inches of dirt. Repeat until full. Stop adding waste and wait for cycle completion.

Whichever option you try, let the bokashi residue “rest” before using it as fertilizer for new plants. Fresh residue may be too strong to support root development and uptake, although it is useful as a starter for compost piles. Use carnivore waste residue to fertilize only non-edible plants. The material might contain stubborn pathogens that could contaminate fruits, vegetables, and herbs during harvesting.

Cold weather can temporarily stop outdoor bokashi recycling operations. You can ferment indoors – minimum 40° (4° C) optimum 70-100° F (21 and 38° C) – but you will need to eventually work a good bit of the residue into workable soil. So if you want the process to continue in a timely way, prepare a storage system that allows your project to function when temperatures dip.

Working with bokashi bran is like cooking – once you get the basics down, variations are as endless as your imagination. Invest a little time to explore this intriguing portal to pet sustainability.

Related Reading:
Sources:

How Much and When Should You Water Your Trees?

SONY DSC

A large giant is lurking around your home, just waiting for a little attention. And chances are you rarely think about its needs.

While an arborist spends his days thinking carefully about the future of the forests around him, it’s something homeowners rarely do. After all, we have to-do lists a mile long. If something isn’t causing a problem, why worry about it?

Unless you’ve recently dug a hole, visited a nursery, selected a new tree, and planted it in the ground, watering probably hasn’t entered into your mind. Most of your trees were a part of  your landscaping before you purchased your home.They’re just there. They grow. Why worry about them?

But think for a moment about all they go through. Relentless rainstorms and huge shifts in climate: fall, winter, and spring. Inch after inch of rain soaking into their root systems. Winds that cause the boughs of trees to sway back and forth. And finally, the heat of the summer, where the sun shines down day after day, sometimes breaking records with heatwaves that quickly bring ninety degree days over and over again. It’s only natural that we assume trees can handle life on their own. After all, they’ve lived here on earth a lot longer than we have. And they’ll be here long after we’re gone.

A tree in the wild is different than one we keep in our landscaping. When we choose to make a tree a part of our décor, it takes more than Mother Nature to keep it alive and in peak condition. Tree watering is an important aspect of that process. It’s important to understand when a tree needs a little extra help.

Newly Planted Trees

This is the point in time where we spend the most amount of time caring for a tree. When you plant it, you understand that it needs a little extra attention. So you watch over it, giving it extra care along the way.

For most of us, we plant a new tree when the weather is at its best. Spring, summer, and fall are the perfect times to change things up in the garden and bring in a new tree to add to the view.

Select the final spot carefully, making sure it has plenty of room to grow in the coming years. Dig the hole deep enough to cover the root system, with plenty of space to spread out. Then add water to the hole as you fill it up. Be sure to give it a thorough soaking after the process is complete.

Then continue to water your new tree in the coming weeks.  A new tree can begin wilting long before it shows up its leaves. An extra soaking every few days will help it take root and give it strength as it takes hold.

The First Two Years

Trees are most vulnerable the first two years after planting. This is when they do the most expanding. This is when substantial growth takes place. Its root system is spreading out, taking place deep within the soil.

During the first few months, it will have trouble dealing with heat and drought. If you plant in the summer, make sure you give your new tree extra water during dry spells or days of intense heat.

Don’t forget to track moisture throughout the first two years as well. Some years we get more than our fair share of moisture. Other years, we can go weeks at a time with hardly a drop of rain in sight. Keep track of the rainfall. If we experience more than a couple of weeks without significant moisture, add extra water.

You can also help keep the ground wet my adding wood-chip mulch around the base of the tree. This helps the water move deep into the soil, and stay moist for longer periods of time.

Is There Such a Thing As Too Much?

Just like not enough water can harm a tree, too much of a good thing can cause its own set of problems.

Overwatering a tree is a common mistake, especially in a newer tree. Keeping the ground moist is different than allowing it to become soggy. Moist soil that is allowed to dry out for short periods of time will allow oxygen to penetrate the ground and feed the root system.

As a general rule of thumb, thirty seconds of a steady water flow around the base of the tree will provide adequate water to the roots. And if you’ve added mulch around the base, it will keep the moisture where it belongs.

If you aren’t sure if the ground is moist enough, there’s an easy way to check. Using a garden tool, dig about two inched into the ground, making a small trench for you to access. Place your finger to touch the soil and determine its water content. If it’s moist, it doesn’t need additional water.

Trees Over Two Years Old

Once a tree has been on the ground for more than two years, it has been established into the ground. This means it can handle a wider variety of conditions with ease. It has the proper root structure in place to handle heat and drought in an easier manner.

However, you can still base watering needs on conditions. When we set records for most days over ninety degrees or most days without rain showers, reach out to your trees and provide them with a little extra nourishment. An extra drink of water will help keep them strong.

Planning for the Future

Whether you are planting trees in a new home in a new community or are simply ensuring success with trees that have been in your yard for years, taking action now can ensure their health for years to come.

If you’ve experienced droughts in the past, plant drought-tolerant species whenever you plant new trees. That will give you an advantage in the years to come if conditions continue.

Our Future Relies on Healthy Soil

(Dr. Mercola) It’s easy to take soil for granted. That is, until you lose it. The dirt beneath your feet is arguably one of the most under-appreciated assets on the planet. Without it, life would largely cease to exist while, when at its prime, this “black gold” gives life.

In nature, plants thrive because of a symbiotic relationship with their surrounding environment, including mircroorganisms in the soil.

The rhizosphere is the area immediately around a plant’s root. It contains microorganisms that thrive on chemicals released from the plant’s roots. These chemicals, known as exudates, include carbohydrates, phytochemicals and other compounds.

In exchange for the exudates, the root microbiome supplies the plant with important metabolites for health, which, along with exposure to pests and pathogens, helps plants produce phytochemicals.

A well-fed root microbiome will also supply plants with ample nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) — the three ingredients that also make up most synthetic fertilizer (NPK).

Unfortunately, while nature’s system results in handsome rewards, including more nutritious foods and less environmental pollution, modern-day farmers have largely become stuck in a cycle of dousing crops with synthetic chemicals tthankshat destroys the soil and, ultimately, the environment.

Why Synthetic Fertilizers Are Ruining the Planet

Synthetic fertilizers make sense in theory, and they do make plants grow bigger and faster. The problem is that the plants are not necessarily healthier. In fact, they miss out on the symbiotic relationship with their root microbiome.

Because they’re being supplied with NPK, the plant no longer “wastes” energy producing exudates to feed its microbiome.

Therefore, it receives fewer metabolites for health in return. The end result is plants that look good on the outside but lack minerals, phytochemicals and defenses against pests and disease on the inside.

Further, as reported by Rick Haney, a U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) soil scientist, less than 50 percent of synthetic fertilizers applied to crops are used by the plants. Haney told Orion Magazine:1

“Farmers are risk averse … They’ve borrowed a half million dollars for a crop that could die tomorrow. The last thing they want to worry about is whether they put on enough fertilizer. They always put on too much, just to be safe.”

The excess fertlizer runs off into the environment, with disastrous effects. As fertilizer runs off of farms in agricultural states like Minnesota, Iowa, Illinois, Wisconsin, Missouri and others, it enters the Mississippi River, leading to an overabundance of nutrients, including nitrogen and phosphorus, in the water.

This, in turn, leads to the development of algal blooms, which alter the food chain and deplete oxygen, leading to dead zones. One of the largest dead zones worldwide can be found in the Gulf of Mexico, beginning at the Mississippi River delta.2Fisheries in the Gulf of Mexico have been destroyed as a result.

Soil Health Campaign Educates Farmers How to Work With Nature

USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) convenes sessions around the U.S. in an effort to improve soil health and teach farmers how to use less fertilizer and produce the same, and in some cases better, yields. Haney told Orion Magazine:3

“Our entire agriculture industry is based on chemical inputs, but soil is not a chemistry set … It’s a biological system. We’ve treated it like a chemistry set because the chemistry is easier to measure than the soil biology.”

While standard soil tests measure chemical properties in the soil, Haney developed a test to measure soil biology. A rich microscopic community is what Haney is after. Only this can support the fascinatingly complex process of plant growth and, at the same time, naturally cut carbon emissions by fixing carbon in the soil.

It’s estimated that one-third of the surplus carbon dioxide in the atmosphere stems from poor land-management processes that contribute to the loss of carbon, as carbon dioxide, from farmlands.4 Writing in Orion Magazine, Kristin Ohlson, author of “The Soil Will Save Us,” explained:5

When we admire good soil’s dark chocolate-cake sponginess and sweet smell, we’re admiring the handiwork of trillions of soil microorganisms over time.

They eat carbon and expire carbon dioxide, just as we do, but they also “fix” a percentage of that carbon in the soil. Barring disturbance, it stays there for a very long time.

… Photosynthesis is the only process that safely and inexpensively removes carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, allowing carbon that is a problem in the skies to become a boon for the land.

Based on this principle, one hundred governments and nonprofits launched the 4/1000 Initiative … calling for an increase of carbon in the world’s soils by 0.4 percent per year.

This relatively small boost will not only radically improve soil fertility but also, the coalition claims, halt the annual rise of atmospheric carbon dioxide.”

Three ‘Game-Changing’ Practices for Agriculture

Carbon farming is a simple premise that involves using agricultural methods that can naturally trap carbon dioxide in the ground (for decades, centuries or more) while also absorbing it from the air.

The process, known as “carbon sequestration,” could help mitigate greenhouse gas emissions and:

Regenerate the soil Limit agricultural water usage with no till and crop covers
Increase crop yields Reduce the need for agricultural chemicals and additives, if not eliminate such need entirely in time
Reduce atmospheric carbon dioxide levels Reduce air and water pollution by lessening the need for herbicides, pesticides, and synthetic fertilizers

A recent study published in the journal Nature further revealed that by managing soils to reduce greenhouse gases, it could lead to a wealth of “side benefits,” including healthier soils and ecosystems, less fertilizer runoff and less soil erosion.6

In an interview with The Christian Science Monitor, Phil Robertson of Michigan State University explained three “game-changing” practices that could help make soils “net mitigating,” meaning they capture more greenhouse gases than they emit.7

  1. No-till cultivation, in which crops are grown without plowing
  2. Advanced nitrogen fertilizer management, or applying only minimal amounts of fertilizer
  3. Cover crops

The latter strategy alone, cover crops, can virtually eliminate the need for irrigation when done right. The cover crops also act as insulation, so the soil doesn’t get as hot or cold as it would if bare. This allows microbes to thrive longer.

Also, the soil biology heats up the soil, which can extend your overall growing season in colder areas, and it helps prevent soil erosion. In 2012, a Census of Agriculture report found just over 10 million acres of farmland (out of 390 million total) were being planted with cover crops, but its use is growing.

In an annual survey of farmers taken in 2014, farmers reported planting double the mean acreage in cover crops reported in 2010.8 Farmers who adopt the technique have reported better soil texture, less erosion, and increased crop yields.

Planting Winter Cover Crops May Make Farmers Money

This is key, because convincing most farmers to change their practices solely for environmental reasons isn’t an easy proposition, especially if it also involves increased costs to the farmer. Robertson recommends using conservation payments, which have been in place for decades, to pay farmers to adopt more sustainable agricultural practices.

Some farmers also change their ways after seeing the success of their neighbors’ farms. Farmer Doug Anson, who along with his family plants cover crops on 13,000 of their 20,000 acres of Indiana farmland, told The New York Times:9

“In the part of a field where we had planted cover crops, we were getting 20 to 25 bushels of corn more per acre than in places where no cover crops had been planted … That showed me it made financial sense to do this.”

A research project that’s been ongoing for two decades in Michigan, comparing crop plots using four different farming methods, has also shown promise for cover crops. The fields that received small amounts of fertilizer and were planted with winter cover crops had yields similar to conventional fields with far less nitrogen leaching.10

The U.S. government has even set up a small subsidy system to help farmers offset the costs of cover crops and other regenerative practices, but one major hurdle to cover crops becoming mainstream involves absentee land owners.

Many farmers grow crops on land they do not own but rather lease; they therefore have little incentive to want to improve soil quality on land they do not own. Landowners could, however, offer incentives to farmers to use regenerative practices that would, in turn, increase the value of their land.11

Farmers and Landowners Can Get Paid for ‘Carbon Credits’

Conventional farmers have much to gain from trying out carbon-sequestration practices like planting cover crops, applying compost and not tilling; they can accumulate, and be paid for, carbon credits.

Farmers can even use the USDA’s COMET-Farm online tool to find out their approximate carbon footprint, as well as experiment to see which land-management practices sequester the most carbon on their farm.12 How does it work? Modern Farmer explained:13

“Land-based carbon sequestration is measured in metric tons per hectare (2.5 acres); one metric ton earns one carbon credit, making the math easy. In California — the only state in the US with a full-fledged cap-and-trade program — the current value of a carbon credit is around $12 to $13. (Farmers in other states, by the way, are eligible to earn credits through the California carbon market.)

Alberta, which has the most robust carbon market in Canada and rewards several agricultural practices with carbon credits, raised the price of carbon credits from $15 to $20 on January 1, 2016; in 2017, the price will go up to $30 per credit.”

Unfortunately, the way the system is currently set up, farmers already using beneficial conservation practices are not eligible for carbon credits. Only those switching land from conventional agriculture to soil-conservation practices may receive credits, with the exception of spreading compost over grazed grasslands, which are used to raise grass-fed beef and other pastured animal products.

This recently approved carbon credit “protocol” was largely the result of the Marin Carbon Project, which found a single 1/2-inch dusting of compost on rangeland can boost the soil’s carbon storage for at least 30 years.

If you’re a farmer interested in receiving carbon credits, you’ll need to sign up with a carbon credit registry such as the Climate Action Reserve, the American Carbon Registry, or and the Verified Carbon Standard. An inspector will visit your farm regularly to ensure you’ve carried out the protocols correctly.14It’s easy to take soil for granted. That is, until you lose it. The dirt beneath your feet is arguably one of the most under-appreciated assets on the planet. Without it, life would largely cease to exist while, when at its prime, this “black gold” gives life.

In nature, plants thrive because of a symbiotic relationship with their surrounding environment, including mircroorganisms in the soil.

The rhizosphere is the area immediately around a plant’s root. It contains microorganisms that thrive on chemicals released from the plant’s roots. These chemicals, known as exudates, include carbohydrates, phytochemicals and other compounds.

In exchange for the exudates, the root microbiome supplies the plant with important metabolites for health, which, along with exposure to pests and pathogens, helps plants produce phytochemicals.

A well-fed root microbiome will also supply plants with ample nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) — the three ingredients that also make up most synthetic fertilizer (NPK).

Unfortunately, while nature’s system results in handsome rewards, including more nutritious foods and less environmental pollution, modern-day farmers have largely become stuck in a cycle of dousing crops with synthetic chemicals tthankshat destroys the soil and, ultimately, the environment.

Why Synthetic Fertilizers Are Ruining the Planet

Synthetic fertilizers make sense in theory, and they do make plants grow bigger and faster. The problem is that the plants are not necessarily healthier. In fact, they miss out on the symbiotic relationship with their root microbiome.

Because they’re being supplied with NPK, the plant no longer “wastes” energy producing exudates to feed its microbiome.

Therefore, it receives fewer metabolites for health in return. The end result is plants that look good on the outside but lack minerals, phytochemicals and defenses against pests and disease on the inside.

Further, as reported by Rick Haney, a U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) soil scientist, less than 50 percent of synthetic fertilizers applied to crops are used by the plants. Haney told Orion Magazine:1

“Farmers are risk averse … They’ve borrowed a half million dollars for a crop that could die tomorrow. The last thing they want to worry about is whether they put on enough fertilizer. They always put on too much, just to be safe.”

The excess fertlizer runs off into the environment, with disastrous effects. As fertilizer runs off of farms in agricultural states like Minnesota, Iowa, Illinois, Wisconsin, Missouri and others, it enters the Mississippi River, leading to an overabundance of nutrients, including nitrogen and phosphorus, in the water.

This, in turn, leads to the development of algal blooms, which alter the food chain and deplete oxygen, leading to dead zones. One of the largest dead zones worldwide can be found in the Gulf of Mexico, beginning at the Mississippi River delta.2Fisheries in the Gulf of Mexico have been destroyed as a result.

Soil Health Campaign Educates Farmers How to Work With Nature

USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) convenes sessions around the U.S. in an effort to improve soil health and teach farmers how to use less fertilizer and produce the same, and in some cases better, yields. Haney told Orion Magazine:3

“Our entire agriculture industry is based on chemical inputs, but soil is not a chemistry set … It’s a biological system. We’ve treated it like a chemistry set because the chemistry is easier to measure than the soil biology.”

While standard soil tests measure chemical properties in the soil, Haney developed a test to measure soil biology. A rich microscopic community is what Haney is after. Only this can support the fascinatingly complex process of plant growth and, at the same time, naturally cut carbon emissions by fixing carbon in the soil.

It’s estimated that one-third of the surplus carbon dioxide in the atmosphere stems from poor land-management processes that contribute to the loss of carbon, as carbon dioxide, from farmlands.4 Writing in Orion Magazine, Kristin Ohlson, author of “The Soil Will Save Us,” explained:5

When we admire good soil’s dark chocolate-cake sponginess and sweet smell, we’re admiring the handiwork of trillions of soil microorganisms over time.

They eat carbon and expire carbon dioxide, just as we do, but they also “fix” a percentage of that carbon in the soil. Barring disturbance, it stays there for a very long time.

… Photosynthesis is the only process that safely and inexpensively removes carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, allowing carbon that is a problem in the skies to become a boon for the land.

Based on this principle, one hundred governments and nonprofits launched the 4/1000 Initiative … calling for an increase of carbon in the world’s soils by 0.4 percent per year.

This relatively small boost will not only radically improve soil fertility but also, the coalition claims, halt the annual rise of atmospheric carbon dioxide.”

Three ‘Game-Changing’ Practices for Agriculture

Carbon farming is a simple premise that involves using agricultural methods that can naturally trap carbon dioxide in the ground (for decades, centuries or more) while also absorbing it from the air.

The process, known as “carbon sequestration,” could help mitigate greenhouse gas emissions and:

Regenerate the soil Limit agricultural water usage with no till and crop covers
Increase crop yields Reduce the need for agricultural chemicals and additives, if not eliminate such need entirely in time
Reduce atmospheric carbon dioxide levels Reduce air and water pollution by lessening the need for herbicides, pesticides, and synthetic fertilizers

A recent study published in the journal Nature further revealed that by managing soils to reduce greenhouse gases, it could lead to a wealth of “side benefits,” including healthier soils and ecosystems, less fertilizer runoff and less soil erosion.6

In an interview with The Christian Science Monitor, Phil Robertson of Michigan State University explained three “game-changing” practices that could help make soils “net mitigating,” meaning they capture more greenhouse gases than they emit.7

  1. No-till cultivation, in which crops are grown without plowing
  2. Advanced nitrogen fertilizer management, or applying only minimal amounts of fertilizer
  3. Cover crops

The latter strategy alone, cover crops, can virtually eliminate the need for irrigation when done right. The cover crops also act as insulation, so the soil doesn’t get as hot or cold as it would if bare. This allows microbes to thrive longer.

Also, the soil biology heats up the soil, which can extend your overall growing season in colder areas, and it helps prevent soil erosion. In 2012, a Census of Agriculture report found just over 10 million acres of farmland (out of 390 million total) were being planted with cover crops, but its use is growing.

In an annual survey of farmers taken in 2014, farmers reported planting double the mean acreage in cover crops reported in 2010.8 Farmers who adopt the technique have reported better soil texture, less erosion, and increased crop yields.

Planting Winter Cover Crops May Make Farmers Money

This is key, because convincing most farmers to change their practices solely for environmental reasons isn’t an easy proposition, especially if it also involves increased costs to the farmer. Robertson recommends using conservation payments, which have been in place for decades, to pay farmers to adopt more sustainable agricultural practices.

Some farmers also change their ways after seeing the success of their neighbors’ farms. Farmer Doug Anson, who along with his family plants cover crops on 13,000 of their 20,000 acres of Indiana farmland, told The New York Times:9

“In the part of a field where we had planted cover crops, we were getting 20 to 25 bushels of corn more per acre than in places where no cover crops had been planted … That showed me it made financial sense to do this.”

A research project that’s been ongoing for two decades in Michigan, comparing crop plots using four different farming methods, has also shown promise for cover crops. The fields that received small amounts of fertilizer and were planted with winter cover crops had yields similar to conventional fields with far less nitrogen leaching.10

The U.S. government has even set up a small subsidy system to help farmers offset the costs of cover crops and otherregenerative practices, but one major hurdle to cover crops becoming mainstream involves absentee land owners.

Many farmers grow crops on land they do not own but rather lease; they therefore have little incentive to want to improve soil quality on land they do not own. Landowners could, however, offer incentives to farmers to use regenerative practices that would, in turn, increase the value of their land.11

Farmers and Landowners Can Get Paid for ‘Carbon Credits’

Conventional farmers have much to gain from trying out carbon-sequestration practices like planting cover crops, applying compost and not tilling; they can accumulate, and be paid for, carbon credits.

Farmers can even use the USDA’s COMET-Farm online tool to find out their approximate carbon footprint, as well as experiment to see which land-management practices sequester the most carbon on their farm.12 How does it work? Modern Farmer explained:13

“Land-based carbon sequestration is measured in metric tons per hectare (2.5 acres); one metric ton earns one carbon credit, making the math easy. In California — the only state in the US with a full-fledged cap-and-trade program — the current value of a carbon credit is around $12 to $13. (Farmers in other states, by the way, are eligible to earn credits through the California carbon market.)

Alberta, which has the most robust carbon market in Canada and rewards several agricultural practices with carbon credits, raised the price of carbon credits from $15 to $20 on January 1, 2016; in 2017, the price will go up to $30 per credit.”

Unfortunately, the way the system is currently set up, farmers already using beneficial conservation practices are not eligible for carbon credits. Only those switching land from conventional agriculture to soil-conservation practices may receive credits, with the exception of spreading compost over grazed grasslands, which are used to raise grass-fed beef and other pastured animal products.

This recently approved carbon credit “protocol” was largely the result of the Marin Carbon Project, which found a single 1/2-inch dusting of compost on rangeland can boost the soil’s carbon storage for at least 30 years.

If you’re a farmer interested in receiving carbon credits, you’ll need to sign up with a carbon credit registry such as the Climate Action Reserve, the American Carbon Registry, or and the Verified Carbon Standard. An inspector will visit your farm regularly to ensure you’ve carried out the protocols correctly.14

Regenerating Our Soil Is the Solution

It’s clear that paying attention to our soils is crucial to our health and future. Fortunately, change is occurring both on large and small scales. The USDA’s NRCS has become very committed to understanding and teaching about natural soil health and regenerative agriculture

Not only will regenerating our soils lead to improved food production, it will also address a majority of resource concerns, such as water. When you add carbon back into the soil, such as by adding mulch or cover crops, the carbon feeds mycorrhizal fungi that eventually produce glomalin, which may be even better than humic acid at retaining water. This means you naturally limit your irrigation needs and make your garden or fields more resilient during droughts.

Considering data suggesting we may lose all commercial topsoil, globally, in the next 60 years if we keep going at the current rate, such changes cannot move fast enough. The NRCS website is an excellent resource for anyone interested in learning more about soil health, including farmers wanting to change their system.

At present, about 10 percent of U.S. farmers have started incorporating practices to address soil health. Only about 2 percent have transitioned to full-on regenerative land management, however. On an individual level, you can get involved by growing some of your own food using these regenerative principles on a small scale.

Regenerating Our Soil Is the Solution

It’s clear that paying attention to our soils is crucial to our health and future. Fortunately, change is occurring both on large and small scales. The USDA’s NRCS has become very committed to understanding and teaching about natural soil health and regenerative agriculture

Not only will regenerating our soils lead to improved food production, it will also address a majority of resource concerns, such as water. When you add carbon back into the soil, such as by adding mulch or cover crops, the carbon feeds mycorrhizal fungi that eventually produce glomalin, which may be even better than humic acid at retaining water. This means you naturally limit your irrigation needs and make your garden or fields more resilient during droughts.

Considering data suggesting we may lose all commercial topsoil, globally, in the next 60 years if we keep going at the current rate, such changes cannot move fast enough. The NRCS website is an excellent resource for anyone interested in learning more about soil health, including farmers wanting to change their system.

At present, about 10 percent of U.S. farmers have started incorporating practices to address soil health. Only about 2 percent have transitioned to full-on regenerative land management, however. On an individual level, you can get involved by growing some of your own food using these regenerative principles on a small scale.

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Make Sure Your Garden and Lawn Isn’t Toxic to Your Dog

Spring is the time of year when ingesting the wrong stuff can get dogs into serious trouble, even in their own backyards. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) Animal Poison Control Center reports that its switchboard starts to light up in May when people dig into their yard work and their dogs come along to “help.”

Keeping pets away from commercial weed and bug killers containing toxic chemicals is a no-brainer. And hopefully, none of these are in your landscape maintenance arsenal. But did you know that some seemingly harmless backyard items can be dangerous for dogs? In fact, they can be deadly.

Fertilizers

Dogs walk through plants, collecting product applications on their bodies. When pets come inside, they will try to lick their feet and legs clean, ingesting substances they have picked up.

Lawn fertilizers pose the greatest danger to dogs during and shortly after application. Always read the warning labels and follow application instructions. Most fertilizers recommend that you keep your dog off the grass while you are spreading it and for a specific period of time after application to allow the product to dry.

Keep an eye out for products identified as “weed and feed” – a combination of fertilizers and herbicides – because they contain toxic chemicals. Common herbicides containing 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D), 4-chloro-2- methylphenoxypropionic acid (MCPP) and/or dicamba have been linked to canine bladder cancer. If you decide to use “weed and feed” fertilizers, read the instructions carefully and steer pets away from applications as you would from any weed or bug killer.

Commercial fertilizers without herbicides will cause only minor stomach problems if accidentally ingested in small amounts. The big problems start when dogs wolf down fertilizers, even organic brands, from an open bag or dig up or eat large quantities applied to gardens. Newly fertilized earth boxes and plant containers are especially tempting.

Dogs are attracted to the smell of blood meal and bone meal commonly found in fertilizers. Eating these substances can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and might affect the pancreas. Some synthetic products contain a variety of heavy metals such as iron, which may also sicken pets. These inert contents can be left off labels.

Before choosing fertilizers, ask a garden center professional for help finding ones that will not harm animals. Play it safe and store all bagged fertilizers where dogs can’t reach them. Equally important: keep the ingredient list of all outdoor products you are using.

Mulches

Some dogs are attracted to cocoa bean mulch because of the yummy smell. As with chocolate in any form, this mulch often contains theobromine and caffeine, both of which are toxic to dogs. Many mulch producers now cleanse cocoa bean mulches to remove pet toxins. But while mulches containing cocoa are clearly identified on the bag, finding a pet safe brand might not be easy.

Just to be on the safe side, opt for wood mulch with a dog-friendly texture. Eating too much of any wood-based mulch may cause your pet to vomit or have diarrhea. Switching from bark or chips to finely shredded mulch may discourage this habit.

Compost Piles

Composting is an environmentally responsible way to recycle yard and kitchen waste while enriching your soil. But be aware that a compost pile can be a source of pathogens that might seriously harm or kill pets. If your compost contains dairy or food products other than vegetable matter (breads, meats, oils), mold can easily develop.

According to Dr. Camille DeClementi, Senior Toxicologist at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, moldy foods may contain tremorgenic mycotoxins, poisons that can cause neurological symptoms. Even small amounts can be toxic within a few hours of ingestion and, depending on the dose, can be fatal.

Clinical signs in dogs include vomiting, tremors, agitation, panting, and increased body temperature. If left untreated, neurological signs can progress to seizures. Immediate treatment involves administering medications to clear out toxins, relax muscles, and cool down temperatures, if necessary.

Keep pets away from compost by securing the area with fencing or covers. Do not compost food products that can become moldy in places accessible to pet or wildlife.

Get Professional Help – Fast!

If your dog is showing symptoms of distress and you suspect toxic ingestion, contact your veterinarian or 24-hour animal urgent care office as soon as possible to report your observations in detail. If you cannot reach a local vet, call ASPCA Animal Poison Control hotline at (888) 426-4435 ($65 fee) or the Pet Poison Hotline at (855)764-7661 ($49 fee). Both are available 24-7.

Let an expert know about the toxic substance you suspect (here’s where that list of product ingredients may be vital). A veterinary professional will provide a treatment plan to get your pet on the road to recovery.

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